Rear seal on engine

[cbxjon]

What should I expect to pay for having the rear seal on the motor replaced? I live central Georgia. thanks,,,john

[66vairguy]

What should I expect to pay for having the rear seal on the motor replaced? I live central Georgia. thanks,,,john

Since nobody stated it yet ---- what year car (FC?) and equipment? Are you talking about the rear seal for the fan belt pulley (or harmonic balancer)?

Often a tool can be used to remove the rear pulley in the car and a new seal can be installed. If the pulley seal area is grooved then a sleeve can be installed, although some have success and other say they do not work.

If you mean a different seal let us know.

When you reply folks here will reply.

[jimbrandberg]

Sometimes a simple question can not have a simple answer. I often run into a lot of other things that a Corvair did not come here for but I can't ignore with good conscience.
Rear seal for us is different than rear seal for the other 99%.
Rear seal for us has so many other places besides it where an oil leak may be coming from. "Everything ends up in the skidplate" is a good saying.

[bbodie52]

If you are talking about the rear crankshaft seal (behind the crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer) access is fairly easy by supporting the engine with a floor jack and disconnecting it from the rear engine mount. The rear of the engine can be lowered enough to access and pull the pulley to replace the seal.

If you are talking about the main crankshaft seal in the clutch/torque converter housing, the job is much-more complicated and requires removal of the engine and powertrain from the vehicle. The engine is then separated from the transaxle to permit removal of the clutch assembly or torque converter to permit access and replacement of the front crankshaft seal and gaskets.

The YouTube video below shows the process for accessing the rear seal on a Late Model Corvair...




Finding a qualified Corvair mechanic in central Georgia (Macon/Warner Robins area?) may be difficult.You might be able to get some useful suggestions concerning Corvair mechanics in Georgia by contacting one of the local CORSA club chapters in your area. A CORSA club chapter locator link is included below...


The link below will provide you with a list of useful websites that are Corvair-related. Some of the links will lead you to an extensive technical library that will allow you to download shop manuals and other technical references in Adobe Reader format at no cost. There is also a link that will help you to locate nearby CORSA (Corvair Society of America) club chapters. You will also find a list of essential Corvair parts suppliers. Clark's Corvair Parts in Shelburne Falls, Massachusetts is the biggest and oldest Corvair supplier in the world. You will find a link that can provide you with a series of videos that amount to a tour of the Clark's Corvair Parts facilities. Parts suppliers such as this truly make our Corvair hobby possible.

Common and Useful Corvair Websites

Corvair Forum viewtopic.php?f=225&t=6007


CORSA Chapter Locator

https://www.corvair.org/index.php/compo ... =9&reset=0

This Corvair club is likely the closest to your location in Central Georgia...



https://www.georgiacorvair.com/home.html

2024 OFFICERS
contact info
Heart of Georgia Corvair Club​

134 McGill Road, Sumner, GA 31789
Heart of Georgia Corvair Club

134 McGill Road
Sumner, GA 31789

Phone: 1-229-326-3099

Email: cjlaw1973@gmail.com

[66vairguy]

Do NOT support the engine by the oil pan!!!!!!!!!

I've found a number of bent up oil pump pick-ups do to folks lifting an engine by the middle of the oil pan.

[RexJohnson]

A piece of wood is all that is needed to safely support an engine by the oil pan.

[Frank DuVal]

Yes, block of wood on a floor jack. Heck, you can set the engine on a block of wood, like a moving dolly, to lower it out of the car, then roll it around the floor. One does need good balance....

Clark's C 11539 puller works great to remove the rear pulley (harmonic balancer) with the engine in the car, no need to support anything on a block of wood or jack, nor bother to remove all those screws holding the rear air grille in place. Russell Davis makes that tool, and now also makes a seal installer for those that cannot pry the seal into place squarely.

https://www.bluechiptools.com/corvair-p ... 7lAqzilzJz

He also has a new nifty push rod removal and installer tool.

[66vairguy]

Yes, block of wood on a floor jack. Heck, you can set the engine on a block of wood, like a moving dolly, to lower it out of the car, then roll it around the floor. One does need good balance....

Clark's C 11539 puller works great to remove the rear pulley (harmonic balancer) with the engine in the car, no need to support anything on a block of wood or jack, nor bother to remove all those screws holding the rear air grille in place. Russell Davis makes that tool, and now also makes a seal installer for those that cannot pry the seal into place squarely.

https://www.bluechiptools.com/corvair-p ... 7lAqzilzJz

He also has a new nifty push rod removal and installer tool.

Agree -- lowering the engine "a little" is a PITA. Also you should disconnect the shifter rod on manuals and the engine perimter seal will usually have to be dealt with. Everyone says the Blue Chip tool works well.

[Dennis66]

I thought about this. Yes, perimeter seals, and they are a lot more difficult on EMs than on LMs. You will also have to remove the rear grille. Now ask yourself "are you going to trust just any old shop to do (and reinstall) all of that correctly?" Are you even going to find a shop willing to take a shot without being able to get a flat rate time quote from their computer? Dennis

[vairchet]

This what I use:

[Gasman63]

I was told ...
I have never tried...
If you pull the main bolt out of the balancer (crank bolt) you can put in two longer bolts in the two smaller holes. They are threaded. Put in until they make contact with what i was told is the outer edge of the seal. Turn one then the other. Little at a time and it will force the balancer off. You have to do this evenly or things will get in a bind.

Again, I have not tried this. I bought the little puller from Clarks made by that other company mentioned above. It worked like a dream on my 63 with a 65 140 engine.

BTW, I got this tidbit from the local Corvair Club.

[Dennis66]

While IN THEORY, that may work, it could also backfire. One person has a "pulley" that isn't on too tight. Some may even be able to be pulled off by hand, but others are stuck on there. Tightening bolts on one that is really stuck could possibly break the rear housing causing a lot of extra work and expense. I wouldn't risk it. Dennis

[cnicol]

I was told ...
I have never tried...
If you pull the main bolt out of the balancer (crank bolt) you can put in two longer bolts in the two smaller holes. They are threaded. Put in until they make contact with what i was told is the outer edge of the seal. Turn one then the other. Little at a time and it will force the balancer off. You have to do this evenly or things will get in a bind.

Again, I have not tried this. I bought the little puller from Clarks made by that other company mentioned above. It worked like a dream on my 63 with a 65 140 engine.

BTW, I got this tidbit from the local Corvair Club.

Craig replies: I've done this several times on late models. Works fine. If the balancer resists and doesn't just come right off, stop and go to plan B. The harder part is getting enough of a tap-tap-tap to get the new seal in position. To put the balancer back on, start with a bolt that's too long and draw the balancer partway on. Then, switch to the correct bolt and send it home.

[Frank DuVal]

I was told ...
I have never tried...
If you pull the main bolt out of the balancer (crank bolt) you can put in two longer bolts in the two smaller holes. They are threaded. Put in until they make contact with what i was told is the outer edge of the seal. Turn one then the other. Little at a time and it will force the balancer off. You have to do this evenly or things will get in a bind.

I've replaced several rear housings that had odd oil leaks, I discovered then the housing was cracked from running the bolts in. The bolts do NOT line up exactly with the large circumference of the seal. And that is a real thin seal edge there. Just strong enough to help pry the seal out of position, but it does bend it to do so.

I made a puller that looks almost like vairchet's back around 1980 to avoid breaking the rear housing and saving hours of time. Especially when the car was on the side of the interstate with a sliced oil filter. Yes, I used to do service calls....
What do I mean used to? Just not so many daily drivers anymore. My tool was loaned out also to club members.

Russell's tool has the accessory seal installer available to pull the seal in position easy. I just always took my time with a prybar and some thin wood to protect the paint. No failures to get them in straight.