1965 Corsa Coupe

[2LZ]

Thanks gang! I got some good work done on her today.

It seems the distributor and fuel pump, or that housing aren't leaking oil. I'm hoping it's the o-rings on the oil cooler.
I got it in the air and it appears (so far) that the valve cover gaskets are doing their job and so is the oil pan. It really looks more like the leak has been running back toward the front. We'll see. After all, this car was truly a 20 year sitting barn find.

Air doors underneath (or whatever they're called).... The right one doesn't open very far, the left one opens all the way when I push on them. Also, where the heck do I start with removing tins???? I'll be searching You Tube for what's first, second, etc....I take it the solid piece in the middle with the big bolt is probably part of the mount??? I'll do some more research. I just want to get it all the tins cleaned up so once I attempt to fix the oil leak, it's not residual throwing me a curve ball.

[gbullman]

You’ll probably want to take off the rear grill for better access to the shrouds. I usually just remove the lower shrouds and leave the doors and housings in place which means disconnecting / reconnecting the thermostat push rods with just a little access (hence the recommendation of removing the rear grill). That heavy plate with the big bolt I believe is a skid plate, only reason I know of to take that off is if you’re going to replace the rear cover gasket which is not a frequent leak source.

Other thing to check while you’re in that area is the condition of the rubber in the harmonic balancer. If original you will likely see signs of cracking and dry rot. While you might get some time out of it even with a deteriorated appearance you don’t want to have to go back into things in that area that far again, change it while it is accessible. I’ve attached a photo of my original harmonic balancer I decided to replace. Also rear motor mount, not as familiar with 65 mounts but 66 and above the rubber block should have a distinct upside down V shape, if it is straight across or sagging it should be replaced.

I was in that are of my car a couple of years ago and took care of all of the above. One mistake I made that you can avoid is you should use a neoprene seal around the harmonic balancer (rear seal). I put in Viton and hope I get away with it (slathered plenty of grease on it). Viton seals are better suited for non moving locations (oil cooler, pushrod tubes, head nut / rocker stud, etc. locations).

I’m at around 12K miles since I did all the work in that area, so far so good.

Enjoy!

[2LZ]

Lots of parts came in today....but Mrs. 2LZ had plans already. My 65th! I'll be seriously wrenching tomorrow. Pics coming.

[2LZ]

Good day. Got the first primary carb rebuilt, three more to go. Plus, I got the plate in from Clark's for the fuel pump bypass. Glad I'm going electric FP. This thing was rusted inside and I had to use a vice grip to get the spring, rod, upper diaphragm out.
Got it disassembled and totally cleaned out and put back together with the new stuff. I know the purists may not approve of the lack of using the gaskets for aesthetic purposes,but I wanted it clean and tidy. Staying with the Silver and Black (Raider? ) motif in the engine compartment, that I'm using on the outside of the vehicle. As a bonus, thanks to Flat Six Graphics, I got my Ralph sticker today.

[bbodie52]

The perfect electric fuel pump conversion accessory!


pseudo

1. Other than what is apparent; spurious; sham.
2. Insincere.
3. a placeholder.

[RexJohnson]

You might want to plug the hole in the base of the old pump because oil vapor could seep out of the parts with no gaskets?

[2LZ]

You might want to plug the hole in the base of the old pump because oil vapor could seep out of the parts with no gaskets?

I'll check on that. The Clark's instructions mentioned cutting the centers out of the gaskets and using just the edges of them strictly for aesthetic purposes.

[2LZ]

Boy....the thing about working on something so old is that other ham-fisted mutants have been into places before you.
Started on the second primary carb today. Missing acc pump well spring. That's ok. This ham-fisted mutant put the new throttle shaft in backwards. Fortunately it was quick to reverse on the first carb. I'm sure by the time I get to number four, I'll have this down.

[66vairguy]

Boy....the thing about working on something so old is that other ham-fisted mutants have been into places before you.
Started on the second primary carb today. Missing acc pump well spring. That's ok. This ham-fisted mutant put the new throttle shaft in backwards. Fortunately it was quick to reverse on the first carb. I'm sure by the time I get to number four, I'll have this down.

Looks like you are making good progress.

Keep in mind the primary and secondary accelerator pump springs are different. Supposedly the secondary accelerator pump spring has more tension, but I find it hard to tell.

Note we recently discussed how EASY it is to put the secondary SOLID throttle plate in upside down (has a beveled edge).

Years ago someone started a thread about incorrect/shade tree/cheap Corvair fixes they found on their cars. It was a wonder some of the Corvairs ran or stopped!

[2LZ]

Boy....the thing about working on something so old is that other ham-fisted mutants have been into places before you.
Started on the second primary carb today. Missing acc pump well spring. That's ok. This ham-fisted mutant put the new throttle shaft in backwards. Fortunately it was quick to reverse on the first carb. I'm sure by the time I get to number four, I'll have this down.

Looks like you are making good progress.

Keep in mind the primary and secondary accelerator pump springs are different. Supposedly the secondary accelerator pump spring has more tension, but I find it hard to tell.

Note we recently discussed how EASY it is to put the secondary SOLID throttle plate in upside down (has a beveled edge).

Years ago someone started a thread about incorrect/shade tree/cheap Corvair fixes they found on their cars. It was a wonder some of the Corvairs ran or stopped!

I saw that! So when I ordered the primary carb spring today, I also ordered a pair of secondary carb springs. I never know what I may find. Shipping was same anyway, may as well add them to the order.
Compression test on Monday. My new battery ground cable comes in then, and I have a fresh battery ready and waiting. Fingers crossed.

[joelsplace]

FYI: New batteries need to be charged at a low rate overnight for best life.

[66vairguy]

Just me --- but when an engine has sat for years. I change the oil and filter, pull the distributor and install a dummy shaft to spin up the oil pump while a buddy rotates the engine BY HAND. This primes all the oil galleries and forces new oil into the bearing channels. If all goes well, then the distributor goes back in, set the timing, and fire it up.

[2LZ]

Just me --- but when an engine has sat for years. I change the oil and filter, pull the distributor and install a dummy shaft to spin up the oil pump while a buddy rotates the engine BY HAND. This primes all the oil galleries and forces new oil into the bearing channels. If all goes well, then the distributor goes back in, set the timing, and fire it up.

All good points guys. Thanks. Back in the day when I was wrenching for a living, we used to pre-oil the engines on the stands before dropping them in. Glad we did it. We got a 454 back from the rebuilder and when I spun the oil pump, oil came shooting out the back, which would have been inside the bellhousing on what would have been the new clutch pack. They forgot a galley plug!

Today's job. I'm locked up on the carb projects until I get the springs. Besides, Mrs. 2LZ wants to rebuild the secondary carbs with me. I got my waterproof connectors in so it looks like the e-fuel pump install is on the docket.

[2LZ]

I've read online, long and hard, (there's a ton of info out there) about how to handle the PCV system.
I understand that it may go both directions at different vacuum/pressure during run situations. (Idle, part throttle, WOT, etc.).

I also get that the hose that hooks up to the stock air cleaner provides both clean air to the orifice, under certain situations, and also provide a source of vacuum to eat the crankcase gasses under other situations. I get that it helps purge the crankcase to reduce sludge buildup over time. Now.....I am going to be installing these when I get it back together.

https://californiacorvairparts.com/filt ... -tops.html

Obviously, there is no room to install a fitting for the PCV air filter hose, and I see that folks sell a filter for this application. Problem is, the new filter would eliminate the "suck" part of the function when needed from the carb.

Is this really a huge deal?..... or am I going to end up with a plugged filter and a mess in the engine bay? I do realize engine wear and blowby can make this worse, but let's just say I'm working with a healthy engine. Opine away please. How would you handle this?

[RexJohnson]

The bad thing with a stand along filter for the PCV tube is all engines have some blow by. Some have more than others but all of the blow by will be pushed out of the filter and sucked into the cooling fan. After that all of the fine oil vapor will stick to all of the engine cooling fins which will cause dirt to stick and block air passages. They look good but I wouldn't want to be putting the oil vaper in the cooling system.

[Dennis66]

You're obviously not going for a stock appearance (nothing wrong with that). Get an oil catch can and attacth it o your PCV tube and the filter to the other end. Dennis